Pietraroja’s soul can be perceived even along the road leading to the town. About 900 metres above sea level, dominated by the peaks of the Matese range between Benevento and Campobasso, its surroundings comprise the Matese Regional Park nature reserve, where the region of Campania borders that of Molise. These frontiers were crossed by generations of shepherds travelling with herds of animals when, at the end of summer, men, and often children as well, trekked towards Apulia in their yearly transhumance. “The animals knew the way. Many people went, in order to share the work.” A young cheesemaker talks about his roving grandfather while pulling his own caciocavallo cheese. “In the Gargano region, while awaiting the spring, migrant people from Pietraroja made cheese in a sort of communal dairy where the work was performed for the benefit of all,” sharing an approach based on mutual assistance, perhaps generated by the need to survive in difficult geographical conditions, which strengthened the community spirit and ties. It is no coincidence that the name of the village Mastramici celebrates the gift of friendship (amici means “friends”). Set amongst ruined stone buildings, the Chapel of San Francesco (St. Francis), built after an inhabitant had received the request for its construction from the saint himself, during a dream, is almost completely intact.
Pietraroja has the fragrance of ancient fables, inspired by the memory of a land that belongs to the mountains but whose origins are from the sea. About a hundred million years ago, the rocks of “Le Cavere” were sedimented in the waters of Tethys, the primordial ocean. These strata conserve an exceptional heritage, with remains from an epoch dominated by dinosaurs: plants, fossil fish and terrestrial vertebrates, such as little Ciro, Italy’s earliest fossil and one of the most important in the world. Defined by Società Geologica Italiana (Italian Geological Society) as a “high-resolution treasure chest of palaeo-biodiversity,” this area is a journey into the memory of the Universe, right back to the origins of planet Earth. Scipionyx samniticus revolutionised palaeo-geography. The name is a tribute to Italian geologist Scipione Breislak, who was the first to report the presence of fossil fish at the Pietraroja Geosite, and Onyx is a reference to the claws on its paws. Discovered in 1981, the fossil was studied by the scientists Cristiano Dal Sasso and Marco Signore, revealing an almost complete skeleton, with remains of internal organs, very rare in palaeontology. In 2005, the Geo-palaeontological Park and the Palaeolab were opened, with layout supervised by Paco Lanciano, and it became a pivotal location for the community.
“certain peaks, rising up boldly, pierced the grey clouds,” wrote Jules Verne observing the mountains of Pietraroja. Here you can experience the wonders of nature. In the autumn, the forests paint the landscape with bright colours. Underground streams, supplied by snow, re-emerge to quench the thirst of plants, people and animals. The Rio Caldo river marks the border with Cusano Mutri. As it flows towards the river Titerno, the Vallantica stream creates a waterfall gushing above the stone bridge along the old sheep trail between Sepino and Cerreto Sannita.
A “journey to the centre of the earth” can be performed in the old mines: silent tunnels lead to the vermilion heart formed by the sedimentary rock that contains bauxite. Equipped with torch and helmet, you walk while listening to the mountain’s heart, with the echoes of water dripping from the walls. The Matese caves were the hideouts of brigands during the struggle against Piedmont rule. In 1863 the generals of the National Guard, offering a false promise of salvation, learnt from a citizen of Pietraroja that some members of the Varrone band were hiding in the cave named Grotta delle Fate. After a siege lasting for days, the brigands were captured and shot in the back near what is now the Town Hall. History leaves its mark on memory and on locations. “Here there was the plague in 1656” and “Here there was the famine in 1648” are inscriptions visible on the portal of the church of Santa Maria Assunta, reminders of human fragility and the restoring power of faith.
To fully appreciate Pietraroja, the secret is not to hurry. Just like ham, for which the unique microclimate and natural curing techniques help create its unique aroma. References to ham can be found in period depictions of women’s traditional costumes and in historical documents. In 1776, the Duke of Laurenzana di Piedimonte commissioned a delivery of “prigiotta,” Pietraroja ham. Today, through the endeavours of local ham artisans, it is considered a “legendary ham” (Food and Wine Italia). A private museum in the town illustrates the history of ham, peasant culture and local traditions.
Many young people have chosen to continue the tradition of breeding sheep and cattle, with a contemporary, sustainable vision of animal wellness and quality production. Techniques are handed down from parents to children, teachings that here are considered a dowry, such as cheesemaking and artisanal pasta production. “Carrati (rolled pasta shapes) are part of the heritage of skills possessed by women. This feminine universe has accepted the challenge of adopting an ancient habitual task and placing it at the heart of small business enterprises. The “carrati” typical of Pietraroja are hand-made: the pasta squares are shaped by rolling them around metal rods. The classic sauce is a mutton chop ragout with pecorino sheep’s cheese and walnuts. It was once believed that during sowing, the length of these pasta shapes foretold that of the wheat ears. Popular tales are still common in this area.
The legend of Zì Peppu Mamèo and his book of spells hidden behind a wall of his house is still familiar. The dispute between the priest and the wizard, between sacred and profane, ended with Peppe’s arrest and a spell that left a cleft in the church’s marble threshold. Many people have tried to fit their foot into the Ciampa della Madonna (Madonna’s footprint), without knowing what the legend says: only a woman’s foot can fit the print. “Petra ruens,” flowing stone, like the landslips that have often devastated this area. “Petra robia,” red crags, like the colour of the stones of Pesco Rosito. But the reason for the name Pietraroja (red stone) remains a mystery. Without doubt, the heritage that history has given this land is worthy of utmost respect.
Nature sets the rules, and there is a different flow of time. It is an exciting experience to tread the ground that millions of years ago was the floor of an ocean that no longer exists but that has left the signs of its presence in stone. You have the impression of glimpsing the sea when, at dawn, the air has the tang of fresh milk and the valleys are filled with clouds. Pietraroja has a wandering heart that beats in the village’s shops and in the rock that conceals the life of Jurassic creatures. In the districts of Valli, Filette, Rampuni, Potete, Metole and Costa degli Uccelli, it continues to live in the stories told by generations of shepherds: rovers and emigrants who have returned to their roots to continue their heritage as custodians of these locations, owners of memory, creators of values.